Requirements for long-term engine storage

[Graham Stewart]

Fairly soon I expect to have a requirement to store two engines for an indefinite period of time. They will be stored in a dry garage with temperatures in the 5 to 20 degrees C range. One is a Lancia Beta TC 2 litre engine, the other is a Honda (motorcycle) 750cc V4 engine. My question is - what precautions should I take?

I am intending to drain both engines of their existing oil and refill with new. Is there any preference with grade or type? I will also drain the coolant and leave the engines coolant-free. Should I also turn the engines over from time to time (I will not be able to run them, but I can turn them over by hand or perhaps using the starter motor).

I'd be grateful of any suggestions to keep the engines in the best possible condition, even to the point of total dismantling if that is felt to be the best approach (I'd rather not, but it is an option, I suppose).

[Walezy]

You may want to fill the cylinders with oil and maybe fill the coolant galerries with some coolant to prevent any rust in there but it might be a bit difficult as you will have to close or loop the coolant pipes.

[Alejoint]

Needless to say, mask-tape all of the intake, exhaust and coolant channels to keep bugs from finding themselves a warm, dark and cozy lair for their eggs to hatch. Cover both engines with plastic trash bags, but leave the bags open on the underside so condensation has less chance of building up and rusting any steel/iron parts.

Definitely rid both engines from coolant. Allow the old oil to drain overnight, change the filter and pour in some good mineral oil like Castrol GTX; 15W-40 should do OK for the temps found in your garage. I wouldn't say "fill" all the cylinders to the brim, but removing the spark plugs, pouring a small amount of oil into the cylinders and then rotating the crank two or three revolutions is a must. You should turn the cranks at least every other month .

If any of the engines is built to race specs and heavier valve springs are fitted, it would pay to remove the cam box(es) and applying a fine layer of moly grease or some good kind of assembly lube to all lobes and tappets.

[Guy Croft]

Some very good points above.

I will add:

1. Don't use Moly lubricant - just oil. The grease base can dry out leaving the molybdenum compound to bake hard and this can block oilways etc. Not saying it will be an issue - but as a general rule it can be a problem in oilways.
2. WD40 or similar corrosion protection should be applied every 4 months to the ports and all exposed surfaces of FW, block and head, aluminum and cast-iron. Don'tspray it on the cambelt of course.
3. If a clutch is fitted, remove it, it will bond to the fw.

The biggest problem apart from coolant (outlined in prev posts) is that the old oil around the crank will cause sulfurous attack to the bearings and corrosion on the crank. My strong advice is not simply drain old oil and refill with new, but actually crank up oil pressure fully on the new oil before storing up. It is also vital that the plugs be installed tight to seal the cylinders.

Be aware that taking an engine 'out of storage' will require partial strip to ascertain bearing condition and re-prime oil pump, and expect to have to replace the TC cambelt. It is not uncommon for the tensioner bearing to degrade - if left sitting for a long period. The supposedly sealed-in grease seems to evaporate. The engine seals will gradually go hard too so expect oil leaks on a future start if they're not replaced as a matter of routine.

GC

[Graham Stewart]

Many thanks to Guy and other posters for their suggestions. Much appreciated.