Forum for competition engine enthusiasts. RIP Guy Croft 09/11/2020 - This forum will continue both as a source of information and as a memorial to Guy.
Thanks. Inside and out. That's our rule isn't it?
Inside should clean enough to eat off.
Just in the process of making some modifications to the radiator to install 2 fans instead of the old standard 1 fan for more cooling capability in summer.
Radiator needs to move forward a couple of inches so the second fan clears the alternator pulley.
1.7 twin carb was designed with the same size radiator as the 1.3 single carb boxer! (45 BHP or so difference)
Just remember that over about 25mph the radiator alone must be able to cool the engine. Electric fans are for stationary and low speed only and they do obstruct the airstream to an extent.
Yes the fans never come on while the car is moving well (steady 83-85 degrees or so). No problems there.
It just needs a little more assistance in the traffic here especially during our hot summers.
This week it's 37 in the shade. 45 or so in the sun at least. You can cook eggs on the bodywork.
Correction: 55 in the sun as I just measured it.
39 in the shade at 5.30 pm!!
Your car will need some good fans if you get stuck in a traffic jam with this heat.
Engine and box connected ready to be lifted up and installed.
Some delays expected before start up.
2 hub bolt threads totally destroyed. Not by me but when they were installed by the previous owner/mechanic. Lucky the wheels didn't break off the hub during my 3 years of ownership. 2 out of the 4 bolts on the left side were totally rounded.
Taking the hub to be repaired with new bolts.
Also the driveshaft bushings have been removed as one was split.
Will be looking for replacements next week. That was one messy job. The black grease used there impregnates your skin.
Attachments
ready to install.JPG (102.53 KiB) Viewed 8361 times
2 hub bolts totally destroyed.
hub bolt shagged.JPG (59.18 KiB) Viewed 8361 times
radiator moved forward to allow fitting of 2 x 10 inch fans
Brit01 wrote:
Will be looking for replacements next week. That was one messy job. The black grease used there impregnates your skin.
Nitrile gloves are the only way to fly. I wear them all day long if necessary. My hands used to be stained and cracked from oils and solvents. In cold weather they would bleed.
Brit01 wrote:
Will be looking for replacements next week. That was one messy job. The black grease used there impregnates your skin.
Nitrile gloves are the only way to fly. I wear them all day long if necessary. My hands used to be stained and cracked from oils and solvents. In cold weather they would bleed.
Tim
I'll second that - I spent this weekend working outside and I still have clean and unbroken skin, down to nitrile gloves and more substantial gloves when danger of catching or skinning knuckles and hands on cold metal. Make sure to get nitrile and not surgical gloves with latex as you may well end up with an allergic reaction.
I'll second that - I spent this weekend working outside and I still have clean and unbroken skin, down to nitrile gloves and more substantial gloves when danger of catching or skinning knuckles and hands on cold metal. Make sure to get nitrile and not surgical gloves with latex as you may well end up with an allergic reaction.
They are not really thin surgical gloves but the very thick rubber ones that last a long time. Pretty tough to puncture. Not sure what nitrile gloves are. Never seen them here but thanks for the tip.
My hands have absorbed almost everything thrown at them and still survived.
Nitrile is a synthetic latex. The type I use are mechanics gloves not for medical use. They are not by any means thick but do resist some abuse. I can use many pairs in a day if the work is demanding. By far the best use is greasing bearings.
Turned it over a couple of times without the plugs but then died after about 2 rotations.
Took out the starter motor and did some testing on all the wiring.
Finally to test the motor, jump leads to + terminal on solenoid and jump across to spade energizer connector. Motor ran fine.
Suspected dodgy solenoid.
All voltages to solenoid tested ok and grounded well.
Will locate a new solenoid this week and go from there. (it is 24 years old!).
Engine turns over by hand but firmly due to all the new shells as it should.
Maybe was too much of a strain on the old solenoid.
Looking forward to some happy sounds from Uruguay. Just read back page 1 in this thread: you've been at this for very nearly 7 months now Chris. Give us good news.
They have a torque setting of 4-4.7 kg-m. The threads are very short and vulnerable to damage. I know of many Alfa owners who have destroyed the short threads on these.
I'm thinking loctite threadlocker would be a good idea on these as they receive the vibration through the struts and brakes.
Does Loctite 270 sound ok?
Breaking limit of 270: 33 Nm / 3.3650628 kg-m
Loctite 270 is hard/permanent locker which is great if you don't have to open those bolts anymore. Opening of these would require some heating, because this stuff gets them TIGHT.
Always consider carefully when using permanent lockers. If threads are in soft alloy or something similar, it may strip the threads very easily when joints are opened.
They are in hard steel hubs with 10.9 bolts also. See above picture.
Technical Data 243
Maximum thread size: M36
Strength: Medium
Breakaway torque M10 bolts: 26 Nm
Fixture time steel: 10 min.
Fixture time brass: 5 min.
Fixture time stainless steel: 10 min.
Service temperature range: -55 °C to +180 °C
Pack sizes: 10ml, 50ml, 250ml
Last edited by Brit01 on January 25th, 2012, 6:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.