My 131 abarth (never ending) story - 2017 season updates

[miro-1980]

Guy,

Installation of the protective Fiat cover over the cam belt denies me easy access to the timing mark you made. The cover completely obscures it.

I need to transfer your mark to the cover.

Please remind me: your mark is indicating 10 deg advance or "0" advance ?

Proper advance is 12 deg , right ?

M

[Guy Croft]

With your Marelli distributor if you have a timing light with variable delay facility you can time off a TDC (zero) mark. If not mark up a 10 deg mark. It is a good idea to have both. Timing at idle (850 deg) should be 10 crank deg +/- 2 deg.

G

[miro-1980]

With your Marelli distributor if you have a timing light with variable delay facility you can time off a TDC (zero) mark. If not mark up a 10 deg mark. It is a good idea to have both. Timing at idle (850 deg) should be 10 crank deg +/- 2 deg.

G

Thanks.

Verified to be correct !

Miro

[miro-1980]

Rev limiter :

Remember the plan:

x shift lever 3 .jpg (38.62 KiB) Viewed 11234 times

This is in reality (still unfinished)

xx shift lever 3 .jpg (21.99 KiB) Viewed 11234 times

xxx shift lever 3 .jpg (27.45 KiB) Viewed 11234 times

It will need some finishing touches but the quick launch button is installed.

The rev limiter is hooked up and should be operational by Tuesday .

So is the speedo.

The safety brackets for the flying diff are still being manufactured but should be ready by Wednesday.

We may also install external kKill switch and a rear tow hook.

Re Kill switch :

I am planning to install it before the windshield on the drivers side.

I will be also installing external extinguisher switch possible just next to it. They will be marked by FIA labels as required .

See sketch below :

top view 2.JPG (23.87 KiB) Viewed 11234 times

Question :

1/ Does anybody know what are the FIA rules on these?

2/ Is this the proper location for both ? (Unwarranted pull on the extinguisher might do more damage than good. It will be possible to connect /disconnect the external extinguisher switch so nobody has a chance of just playing with it ...)

Miro

[Walezy]

FIA rules state that in group A cars(probably this is also for group 4 cars which Fiat 131 abarth is) must have kill switch with external and internal switch. Fire system also must have both. You need to have stickers with symbols next to the switch. the location that you have given is correct.
Tow hooks must be in front and rear and must have an arrow sticker with proper colour(on red car it will be yellow as i belive).
You can use electric fire system and have a switch inside that will disconnect external switch, this is easiest. for cable actuated system you can use safety pin that comes with system but this will disconnect both cables.

[WhizzMan]

I've seen a lot of people make this a bowden cable pull thing. The cable can be attached to the internal switches next to the driver/co-pilot. That way, you won't have a lot of electric wiring and switches that can fail, or be "played with" when not in use. Just detach the bowden cable when not running the engine.

If allowed by FIA, I'd put the extinguisher well away from the kill switch. You wouldn't want an overzealous track official pull any switch he can just because you had a little spin and ended up in the sand.

[miro-1980]

Thanks Walezy and Wizzman ,

I have put the external kill switch as described.

KILL .jpg (55.16 KiB) Viewed 11146 times

( picture shows it under installation - not completed )

For whatever reason the origin al gr 4 abarths had the kill switch located left of the steering wheel - without easy access by the co-pilot .

I will run a thin wire attached to the kill key (with a small loot at the end) to the co-pilot side of the dash to make sure he has easy access to the switch

We will figure out a safety pin at the end of the external switch linkage to make sure the external switch can be demobilized from inside.

Re :

The system has two pull cables with handles : one to be installed inside and one to be installed externally.
The system comes with a main safety pin which demobilizes both external and internal handles at the same time.

To disable only one ( i.e. external) you must physically remove the external cable from the extinguisher activation handle on the extinguisher tank itself.

I plan to place the external extinguisher switch next to the external kill switch.Both will be marked with proper labels. The handles will also have clear markings ( a "lightening| on the kill switch and "FIRE" on the extinguisher switch.

Th internal switch will be in the center of the dash accessible to both driver and co-pilot - away from other commonly used switches to avoid accidental activation. It will also be well marked with big "E" ( for extinguisher )

ext int switch pos 1 .jpg (102.46 KiB) Viewed 11146 times

RE: Rev limiter :

The clutch switch was connected and works fine . It is really interesting that the mounting hole ( designed believe it or not for cruise control ) can be used to mount the clutch switch .

clutch switch DONE 1.jpg (93.48 KiB) Viewed 11146 times

The installation was also pretty simple : connecting to positive and negative coil terminals and "earth" . installing and connecting the clutch switch were as simple as things come. The installation of the launch control switch into the lever was bit more complicated as the lever had to be taken off and drilled.

The actual operation of the speed shift and launch control switch (both activated by the clutch switch) are still unknown to me , so - to avoid potential complications)m complications I have decided to install a manual off switch , which deactivates the clutch switch. In case the conditions will require deactivation of both functions this can be now done with a flip of a switch.

RE: Speedo

The best choice was to run speedo off the main shaft. The space between the sensor and the magnet has to be between 2 and 5 mm. We have drilled a small space for the magnet on the balancing plate of the main shaft. This way the magnet stays well embedded in the shaft ( does not stick out - which reduces the chance of it flying off ) and at the same we have not touch the main shaft physical structure.

HALL MAGNET INSTAL 1 .jpg (82.06 KiB) Viewed 11145 times

The sensor was placed on a n aluminum plate bolted to the floor of the car in a manner which also reduces chance to hit an obstacle and getting damaged or lost.

HALL SENSOR INSTAL x .jpg (101.25 KiB) Viewed 11145 times

The speedo was dry tested. . Seems to be extremely easy to calibrate , once you know the wheel circumference and diff ratio. Setting for miles/km or km/h takes 5 seconds or less. . Also the multiple functions seem to be accessible easy enough to really use them . Most useful seem acceleration from X/h- Z/h ( i.e. 0-100 km/h) highest speed on a stage, total distance , odometer, etc.

Tomorrow we will do a first running test of all functions of both speedo as well as rev limiter (especially speed shift and quick launch). While these advanced functions seem attractive I will have to learn how to use them and it may take few trials. I am really counting on the shift down light. With expected shift down light.setup at 4000 RPM I should be able to reduce gear from 5 to 4 , from 4 top 3 , from 3 to 2 and from 2 to 1 without even looking at the REV counter. Previously, I seem to remember that deciding if I can shift down took me a while. AS you typically reduce gear just asd you enter the curve. This is not the best time to take your eyes off the road. I hope and expect I will be able to do it quicker and with more confidence without even checking the RPM. Just the engine sound and green light will be enough ( provided I do not try to switch from 5th to to 2nd or from 4th to 1st .... . A large digital gear indicator would be very useful .... not to forget what gear you are on...

The car will be tested this weekend on a Poznan race track , in a classic cars race. Hopefully this time I will also be able to show how it went from two/or three on board cameras.

One will placed externally (probably on the car roof) . One will show the driver in action . The third one , if we manage to work out proper mounting and positioning will show the key elements of the dash gauges. Could be fun ...

Miro

[LanciaNut69]

Hi Miro,

Just a thought on placement of the cut off switch and extinguisher pulls. I think you have chosen a good place to mount them, but I suggest you reconsider the final fixing. The problem with leaving the pulls pround of the bodywork is that you may find them accidentally pulled when competing, especially with a rally car on stage. If you went slightly off line and ran undersome overhanging branches, the switches could be snagged - result; engine cut off - not so much of a problem, but it could be that the extinguisher is set off, resulting in an unholy mess in your engine bay and end of event. Even if you were able to get the engine running again, you would not be able to continue with a discharged extinguisher.

I suggest either mounting the pulls below the level of the bonnet to the scuttle panel, with an area of the bonnet grille cut so they can be accessed, or you can buy a purpose made 'bucket' to house the pulls.

Hope this helps.

Darren

[miro-1980]

Hi Darren,

Thanks for your very thoughtful comments. Placing the pull in a bucket would be ideal.

I have not about it before. However, after reading you8r post I have looked around for place to embed the bucket and ... have found none.

The area between the bonnet and the windshield is restricted by several factors:

1/ The wipers and its moving arms underneath,

2/ The chassis construction ( steel sheet, and steel profile strengthening the area under windshield /dashboard and providing structural support for the cockpit.

3/ 10 cm diameter cold air vent ducts go through the structural element,

The bonnet -no can do - it is detachable.

The wing tops are too narrow .

There is really no place for even a small bucket.


On the up side: The KILL pull is a 10 cm steel rod before becoming king a wire. This steel rod is placed in a 10 cm cylinder. The the rod and the cylinder have a guide not allowing for any other movement but up or down ( the handle cannot be turned around at all) Moreover the bottom part of the rod reaches and goes through the structural element and thus blocks the whole handle from being pulled side ways in any direction.The handle would have to be pulled 10 cm straight up to be activated. Pulling to the side ( back or forth may damage the plastic handle but will not activate the switch.

We have build a simple detachment for the kill key so that the external switch can be deactivated

Re Extinguisher.

We did not manage to install the extinguisher, so no pull is installed yet. The attachment "J" stipulates that the extinguisher must have a external switch placed next to the kill switch. We can find enough space there but this will be done later this year

MIRO

[LanciaNut69]

Hi Miro,

Good points all and understand the issues of placement. I have seen the cut off and extinguisher pulls mounted in a bucket on the side of the wing, which may be an alternative depending on the motorsport rules of your country. Just a thought, but I am sure you will solve the problem and execute it with your usual thoroughness.

All the best

Darren

[Guy Croft]

That awful gear lever has to go, Miro.

You know that don't you?!

G

[timinator]

Hi Miro,


[quote][/quote]I plan to place the external extinguisher switch next to the external kill switch.Both will be marked with proper labels. The handles will also have clear markings ( a "lightening| on the kill switch and "FIRE" on the extinguisher switch.

Th internal switch will be in the center of the dash accessible to both driver and co-pilot - away from other commonly used switches to avoid accidental activation. It will also be well marked with big "E" ( for extinguisher )

It might be to your advantage to label your internal and external switches with the same wording. Course workers are not all of the same caliber. Symbols are not always the best way to convey meaning. A simple "E" could mean extinguisher or electrical. "KILL" and "EXTINGUISHER" are very clear in their meaning. Have enjoyed reading about your build.

Tim

[Guy Croft]

shurely there are FIA regs on the subject of safety system labelling and their placement & controls? Whether you have to abide by them or not - they generally make very good sense.

Have you checked that out Miro?

I frequently look up things discussed here using Google and here is one I found about Momo systems:

http://www.fia.com/resources/documents/ ... 025_07.pdf

Note the FIA approved layout dwgs...

Lifeline is probably the best known in the UK:

http://www.lifeline-fire.co.uk/motorspo ... ponents-79

G

[Rich Ellingham]

Miro, get stainless steel cables for the pull switches the plain steel cables rust very easily and become impossible to pull. With regards to the extinguisher, leave the pin in the extinguisher at scrutineering or when parked. I don't think I've ever been to a race where the scrutineering bay hasn't been covered in a patch of foam where a scrutineer has pulled the E cable!!

This is an early pic of my install (bonnet was trimmed further), I also have smaller labels on the windscreen for when the bonnet is off (i.e. during scrutineering)

[timinator]

Hi Miro,

All racing groups try to impose rules they hope will lead to safe racing. In my area we would not be allowed to mount both release handles as close to each other as are shown in Rich's photo without a partition of some sort. We also would not be allowed to mount them where body panels dislodged by collision could cover the handles such as deck lids(boots) or hoods(bonnets). The best way to find if your warning labels are easy to understand is ask someone who does not race. It might be easier to go to the track where you plan to race and ask the tech official(scrutineer) for his or her suggestions.

Tim