AUDI auto gearbox service tips
Posted: September 30th, 2013, 1:48 pm
Hi all!
I'm after a few tips please. I'm going to be changing my gearbox (auto) oil in the next few weeks and I'm after a couple of tips. The gearbox on my car Audi RS6 is a ZF HP24A and they fail quite often. Although its stated as a 'sealed' box numerous cars all over the world have experienced premature failure, brakedown of Torque Converter, stuck valve bodies and cracked internals. This wouldn't normally bother me too much, but they cost around £5k to replace. I know I could take it to Audi (or a Specialist) but these aren't common cars (so I don't necessarily trust Audi anyway) and believe it or not I'm keen to do everything myself. The instructions themselves are quite complicated involving plugging a computer, monitoring temperatures and filling to an exact level.
Anyway I digress.
Potential problem number 1: The filter is inside the sump and bolted vertically into the valve body. I've yet to find out the tightening torque, nor any mention of threadlock. Its gotta have threadlock on surely? If the nut falls out the filter with fall into the sump (only a few mm) and pickup will be touching the bottom and could starve the gearbox. What do you guys reckon?
Potential problem number 2: And this is a biggy. I have ordered all the genuine parts from Audi, but reputable specialists (of ZF gearboxes) have noted that supplied kits often contain a filter with a longer pickup than needed. I don't yet know whether mine filter is one of them, but the solution is rather worryingly to saw the end of the pipe. Its a metal pipe (steel I'm guessing) and I don't want any particles getting free'd. Do you think its a good idea to do this and just bung up the end then clean away all the swarf? One line of thinking is that the filter fits a similar gearbox (the non 4wd ZFHP24 - note no 'A' at the end).
Potential problem number 3: Many people have recommended cleaning the valve body a little. Now, the valve body is an A4 sized lump of aluminium with lots of pipes, O-rings, valves, etc.. I don't have any industrial equipment to clean it with like a steam cleaner - I dont even have a dishwasher - so I'm a little reluctant to get busy with the JIZER, Brake cleaner or elbow grease if I might leave some residue. I also don't want to damage any internal seals. Are there any cleaning products that definately won't damage rubber seals? I assume that hot water might be the best thing to be careful. The other alternative I can think of is to flush all the oil out with more oil. I don't like the idea of this as it would take ages and another £100 in oil (yes it takes 10 litres of oil which costs over £10 per litre).
So in summary: A - Threadlock just to be sure, B - To cut or not to cut & C - To clean or not to clean.
Thanks for looking.
Chris
I'm after a few tips please. I'm going to be changing my gearbox (auto) oil in the next few weeks and I'm after a couple of tips. The gearbox on my car Audi RS6 is a ZF HP24A and they fail quite often. Although its stated as a 'sealed' box numerous cars all over the world have experienced premature failure, brakedown of Torque Converter, stuck valve bodies and cracked internals. This wouldn't normally bother me too much, but they cost around £5k to replace. I know I could take it to Audi (or a Specialist) but these aren't common cars (so I don't necessarily trust Audi anyway) and believe it or not I'm keen to do everything myself. The instructions themselves are quite complicated involving plugging a computer, monitoring temperatures and filling to an exact level.
Anyway I digress.
Potential problem number 1: The filter is inside the sump and bolted vertically into the valve body. I've yet to find out the tightening torque, nor any mention of threadlock. Its gotta have threadlock on surely? If the nut falls out the filter with fall into the sump (only a few mm) and pickup will be touching the bottom and could starve the gearbox. What do you guys reckon?
Potential problem number 2: And this is a biggy. I have ordered all the genuine parts from Audi, but reputable specialists (of ZF gearboxes) have noted that supplied kits often contain a filter with a longer pickup than needed. I don't yet know whether mine filter is one of them, but the solution is rather worryingly to saw the end of the pipe. Its a metal pipe (steel I'm guessing) and I don't want any particles getting free'd. Do you think its a good idea to do this and just bung up the end then clean away all the swarf? One line of thinking is that the filter fits a similar gearbox (the non 4wd ZFHP24 - note no 'A' at the end).
Potential problem number 3: Many people have recommended cleaning the valve body a little. Now, the valve body is an A4 sized lump of aluminium with lots of pipes, O-rings, valves, etc.. I don't have any industrial equipment to clean it with like a steam cleaner - I dont even have a dishwasher - so I'm a little reluctant to get busy with the JIZER, Brake cleaner or elbow grease if I might leave some residue. I also don't want to damage any internal seals. Are there any cleaning products that definately won't damage rubber seals? I assume that hot water might be the best thing to be careful. The other alternative I can think of is to flush all the oil out with more oil. I don't like the idea of this as it would take ages and another £100 in oil (yes it takes 10 litres of oil which costs over £10 per litre).
So in summary: A - Threadlock just to be sure, B - To cut or not to cut & C - To clean or not to clean.
Thanks for looking.
Chris