Seven with Suzuki G13B engine

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Posts: 4
Joined: October 26th, 2009, 9:10 pm
Location: Sweden (Stockholm)

Seven with Suzuki G13B engine

Post by pelle17b » October 28th, 2009, 11:14 am

Here is a little information about my Seven. It is recently registered for road use in Sweden. It is still in need of a paint job, but mechanically it is working fine. If you see anything below that you think is a less good solution that I ought to change please let me know.
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I spent around a year doing research on car building, suspension design, suitable components and so on before I started the build. During that year I also did a model of the car in a 3d cad program, and I designed the suspension to get reasonable values for camber gain, track width change and roll centre movement. Below are some of the build pictures.
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The Car is based on the Lotus Seven concept, but with a number of alterations.

The engine is a Suzuki Swift G13B engine with a Garrett GT2052 turbo. A Gearbox from a Suzuki Samurai is used. The Swift and the Samuri share the same engine block so the gearbox is bolt on using the Swift pressure plate and the Samurai clutch disk (gearbox splines differ). The diff is a Ford Sierra 3:92 with LSD. Driveshafts are Ford Scorpio. The Ford driveshaft splines miracuosly fit the CV joint in the OG Saab 900 front uprights which I use as rear uprights. The steering arm is used for toe in adjustment.

The whole drive line is moved 20mm to the right in the car (it is a left hand drive). This made it easier to get the right track width using two of the shorter Scorpio driveshafts instead of one long and one short as is normal. It also gives a little better right to left weight distribution.
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Todays engine is equipped with a small turbo. It runs on stock internals with the stock CR of 10:1. It is dynoed to 150bhp 160Nm at 0.4 bar boost.
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The setup is as below:

* G13B stock internals
* Dry sump with 2 stage Scavenge pump, home made oil pan and the stock engine oil pump used for pressure.
* Swift MKII intake and throttle body.
* Supra 315cc low Z injectors @3.2bar fuel pressure
* The ECU is an MSII V3 with the extra code (The distributor is removed from the engine).
* VR sensor on a 64-2 toothed disk on the crank.
* Wasted spark using 4 x VAG coil on plug ignitors.
* Boost control using a GM boost control solenoid.
* Innovate WBo2
* Toyota Celica ST165 Watercooled Intercooler

The plan for the winter is to change the following:
* MKII block with a MLS headgasket, or the standard gasket and block O-ringed
* Remanufactured head slightly ported. 0.5mm bigger valves (will work on standard seats with regrind). Bronze guides.
* Reground camshafts (1mm extra lift), adjustable cam gears
* ARP head studs
* ARP studs for main bearings and rods
* Forged pistons 8.5:1 or 9:1 compression
* Stock Rods crack tested and shotpeened or new H-beam forged ones (not decided yet).
* Stock crank
* Lighter flywheel
* New bearings and gaskets
* Full balance
* 440cc Supra injectors

I would like to get good off bost performance so I would like to lower CR to something in the 8.8:1 to 9:1 area.

Target is around 200 reliable BHP.

/Peter Bostrom

Guy Croft
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Joined: June 18th, 2006, 9:31 am
Location: Bedford, UK

Re: Seven with Suzuki G13B engine

Post by Guy Croft » October 28th, 2009, 11:49 am



Posts: 4
Joined: October 26th, 2009, 9:10 pm
Location: Sweden (Stockholm)

The Dry sump setup and Crankcase ventilation

Post by pelle17b » October 28th, 2009, 2:26 pm

One of the changes I have made to the engine is the dry sump system. Here is some information on how I have done. I have run the car 600 km with this setup and I have seen no ill effects. I have not tested it on track yet.

Please feel free to comment on the setup.

I use a two stage scavenge pump. It is a Pace Products CD2000 with 1.1" rotors run @ half crank speed. I use a ordinary L-section belt and two pulleys to drive it off the crank.

It was recommended to me that the scavenge pump capacity should be twice the capacity of the pressure pump.

The scavenge pump has 2 scavenge stages that each pump 13.5l/min@1000 pump rpm. this gives a total scavenge capacity of 13.5 l/min @ 1000 engine rpm since the pump is driven at half the engine speed.

The G13B pressure pump capacity is 6l/min per 1000rpm.

The oil pan has one scavenge drain at the front and one at the rear (One for each section of the scavege pump). At least AN10 swept fittings are recommended from the pan to the pump, and the one (combined oultlet) tube from the pump to the tank is AN12. The scavenge pump pumps the air/oil mixture to an oil tank where the oil is de-aired. That tank is approx 5 litres in size and it has internal plates to aid the air/oil separation. I bought it second hand so i do not know what make it is.

I use the original engine oil pump for pressure.
The engine oil pump is fed from the bottom of the oil tank. There is a threaded bung in the side of the engine oil pump that can be used. I removed the original oil pickup and made a plug to seal the hole by cutting the tube to the oil pickup (about 1cm length), flattening it and and welding it shut before mounting it again.

Below are a few pictures of the home made oil pan, and also some overview pictures of the dry sump system and the crankcase ventilation.
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Posts: 4
Joined: September 7th, 2008, 9:09 pm

Re: Seven with Suzuki G13B engine

Post by robmk5 » November 11th, 2009, 11:06 pm


Haven't got any improvement ideas but had to say I like the use of that G13B in a 7! I envy the fact that your driveshafts worked with the hubs and you had not too much trouble getting engine and 'box to become friends! I'm just trying to ignore the fact that you did better research with your project than me with mine... As for your oil system, have you had any problems with oil temp? If not I would just keep the system exactly as it is. By the way, what oil are you using? Best thing to really test it is take it over to Anderstorp or whatever and stretch its legs! Good idea with the rear track control- does it toe-in on bump steer? Hope so! One last thing, I may be able to give you the name of someone at Patria Helicopters at Arlanda who might, possibly be able to get some carbon-fibre for you if you wanted to make some new bits! It IS a long-shot though!

All the best,

Posts: 4
Joined: October 26th, 2009, 9:10 pm
Location: Sweden (Stockholm)

Re: Seven with Suzuki G13B engine

Post by pelle17b » November 13th, 2009, 12:55 pm

I have seen no problems with high oil temperatures, but the car has not been driven that hard yet. I am using Shell Helix Ultra 10-40.

The plan is to take it to a few trackdays next year.

bumpsteer is currently adjusted close to zero. I measured bump steer for both the front and rear suspension and no wheel will turn more than 0.05 degrees over the full suspension travel (full bump to full droop). If you attach a stick (or a laser pointer) to the brake disk hat corresponds to about 4mm in 4m distance.

The rear suspension arrangement with the toe adjusting arm (which has no rubber bushings) in combination with bushings for the A-Arms, uses the lateral forces to steer the rear wheels slightly towards the inner side of a corner. This I think increases stability slightly during cornering.


Posts: 4
Joined: September 7th, 2008, 9:09 pm

Re: Seven with Suzuki G13B engine

Post by robmk5 » November 13th, 2009, 5:48 pm

That's pretty tiny deflection! My car has quite long suspension travel and the rear wheels go through a bit of a weird track change from full droop to full squat, but if it proves too unstable (so far it is proving really good!) I will go with the old favourite method of attaching the track control arm to one side of the lower wishbone (A-arm) and set it up with minimal toe-in. It works for the WRC boys!

I can see how you get a little dynamic toe-in on cornering as your rear hub carriers have the steering arm aft of the steering pivot- good idea.

Posts: 4
Joined: October 26th, 2009, 9:10 pm
Location: Sweden (Stockholm)

Re: Seven with Suzuki G13B engine

Post by pelle17b » February 20th, 2013, 7:22 am

Posting not to be deleted. Please do not delete me from the forum. Not a big poster, but read a lot. /Peter

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