Lubricants ?

Road-race engines and ancillaries - general discussion
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beardybloke
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Joined: October 19th, 2014, 12:17 pm
Location: Bristol , England
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Lubricants ?

Post by beardybloke »

I have a Fiat 1600 twin cam . Can anyone recommend servicing intervals and what type of engine oil and gearbox oil I should be using . I have had the car for 2 years it was initially serviced by a local classic car garage but I want to do more of the maintenance myself .
Differential is a different matter as my car is a Tvr and therefore a collection of various parts !. Any recommendations of who to get spares from as I previously used a local factors but would rather get correct items for the engine .
Andrew Webb.
GC_100
Guy Croft
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Joined: June 18th, 2006, 9:31 am
Location: Bedford, UK
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Re: Lubricants ?

Post by Guy Croft »

This is actually written for GC engines but should help..

Under full load conditions GC engines need race grade oil eg: the fully synthetic Selenia Racing (10W60), Valvoline VR1 20/50 mineral, 10/60 semi-synthetic or Castrol Edge Sport. The two VR1 grades above can be used for break-in and later power use. Pure synthetic must NOT be used for break-in.

After any break-in period and major overhaul - change the oil and filter. Remember that a remote filter or accumulator set-up requires a filter with an anti-syphon valve. Crank up oil pressure with plugs out again and make sure both camboxes are full before re-starting. The use of oil filters from GCRE is recommended.


The engine should have a confirmatory power run to check jetting BUT do not allow anyone to tamper with GC settings without checking with GC.

On a rolling road and in all service conditions, make sure your coolant and oil temps do not exceed:
Coolant: 75-80 deg C
Oil: 80-90 deg C
Running outside this state can lead to bearing damage, detonation and power loss.


MAINTENANCE

1. Plugs – inspect and replace if electrodes worn – average 1 x year. GC recommended plugs must be used.
2. Cambelt - replace at not more than 36,000 miles. Ignition timing will need resetting to 10 deg at idle
3. Carbs - check idle mixture and balance (dual carbs) every 6 months or less if engine appears to running unevenly
4. Oil & filter - change every 6000miles
5. Air filter – inspect and clean/replace as oil
6. Valve clearances – at the end of the break-in period and once per year.

Check oil and coolant levels once a month at least and BEFORE AND AFTER ANY trackday or competition event.
For competition engines the oil and filter should be replaced AT LEAST after every 3rd event and if the oil smells strongly of petrol contact GCRE.
Guy Croft, owner
beardybloke
Posts: 17
Joined: October 19th, 2014, 12:17 pm
Location: Bristol , England
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Re: Lubricants ?

Post by beardybloke »

Thanks for the advice G.
Since my engine is in standard form at present can you confirm that your oil filter is equivalent to my current one part number PH2857A ?
The plugs you suggest for normal road use are BP6ES , I have BPR6ES at present , I have been told this would only matter if I was running an ECU ? .
I had the timing belt changed when I got the car , but does the advice re ignition timing still apply to a standard engine ?.
On your parts list you have a fuel pump blanking plate , I assume this is to blank off redundant manual pump ?. Is this good practise to seal this off as it isn`t doing anything but clutter up engine bay .
Although the engine is standard at present I do intend to use it occasional for more rapid work , odd track day and a bit of hillclimbing . I will be planning on staying within the engine limits ie upto 5,500 rpm , should I consider using the higher grade oil and better plugs etc ...
Sorry for all the questions , as discussed previously I need good advice so I can develop from a solid base , many thanks Andrew.
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