I would keep this as simple as can-be. I would copy the cam timing off the original pulleys. It will be perfectly suitable and likely 110 deg inlet and ex. There is no such thing as 'perfect cam timing' by the way. Engines will run with anything from 100 to 113 deg full-lift timing. With OE (Fiat standard) cams there is little to be gained by changing it to something, er,'more radical'.
Fit the original camwheels on the end of the cams - with the dowels located in the pulleys - and with the bolts just tightened a little. Use them to set the cams on their TDC positions - they have holes in them which should align with the steel pointer on the cambelt cover bracket at TDC (cyls 1&4). On an engine of that year the inlet camwheel may be marked 'A' and the ex 'S'. If they are not then let me know because there is another way to ID the right pulleys.**** Make sure you don't bend a valve doing this - have a look at where the valves are in relation to each other before turning the cams*****
Mark the cams relative to the camboxes as you can see below. These are the positions the cams should be at TDC cyls 1&4 when the cambelt is fitted. Once you have marked them you can fit the adjustable camwheels and bolt them up hard to 83lbf ft. Thep purpose of adjustable camwheels is simply to allow the belt teeth to line up with the pulleys at TDC.
Timing by this degree method does not require the cams to be 'shimmed' ie: the timing is not affected by running clearance. What you do need is a TDC pointer that tells you reasonably accurately when pistons 1&4 are at TDC (top dead center) and there is an article in the GC Virtual Workshop section of this site on that at:http://guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=104
The cam timing method I have described is used by me sometimes though only if the cams are being set at OE standard timing. There is a more 'complicated' way of 'dialling-in' cams and you can read the attached GC 'How To' for more detail - a time-consuming method I have to use several times a week.
As for the ignition system the Bosch is the more reliable of two, apart from cable fracture I have never heard of one breaking down. That said one must have the right coil and the ballast resistor.
Hope this helps and feel free to ask for more help if you need it.